🔗 Share this article

When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.